Make sure your phone is sufficiently charged (at least 30 %) and you have a stable backup of any important data. You’ll need the passwords or QR codes for the Wi‑Fi networks you plan to test, so keep them handy. If you can, connect to a computer via USB – it will be useful for ADB commands later, though they are optional.
Why this matters: A power‑low device may drop Wi‑Fi to save energy, and a missing password will cause repeated connection failures that look like a bug.
Android’s Wi‑Fi stack is designed to keep you online by automatically switching to the strongest known network. However, several factors can interrupt that hand‑off:
Understanding the root cause helps you apply the right fix instead of guessing.
Run through these three checks first; they resolve the majority of drop‑outs.
Settings ▶ Network & internet ▶ Wi‑Fi.Forget, then reconnect by selecting the network again and entering the password.Forgetting clears any stale DHCP lease or saved security flags.
Advanced (or the three‑dot menu) and look for IP address.169.254., the device failed to obtain a DHCP lease.If you see a 169.254.* address, proceed to step 3 to force a new lease.
Advanced screen, tap IP settings and switch from DHCP to Static.
192.168.1.150), set Gateway to the router’s IP (192.168.1.1), and use 8.8.8.8 as DNS.DHCP. Android will request a fresh lease.This trick works on most Android 9+ devices and clears hidden lease caches.
https://www.example.com. If the page loads but other sites don’t, the DNS server is at fault.8.8.8.8 or Cloudflare 1.1.1.1) in the same Advanced menu.
Correct DNS often resolves “connected but no internet” symptoms that appear after a network switch.
Settings ▶ Battery ▶ Battery optimisation.
All apps, find Wi‑Fi or Google Play services, and select Don’t optimise.Disabling optimisation may reduce battery life slightly, but it prevents the system from cutting Wi‑Fi when the screen is off.
Power off until the Reboot to safe mode prompt appears.If the issue disappears, uninstall recent apps one by one until you pinpoint the offender.
Settings ▶ System ▶ Reset options ▶ Reset Wi‑Fi, mobile & Bluetooth.This step clears all saved networks, Bluetooth pairings, and VPN configurations. It’s a last‑resort fix when other steps fail.
Settings ▶ System ▶ Advanced ▶ System update.Manufacturers often release tiny fixes that address specific chip‑set bugs.
192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1).802.11n/g/b mixed or newer, not “Legacy only”.Sometimes the router’s firmware is the weak link; a quick reboot or firmware update can solve the issue.
Developer options (tap Build number seven times).USB debugging, connect the phone to a PC, and run:
adb logcat -b wifi > wifi_log.txt
wifi_log.txt for lines containing “WPA_SUPPLICANT” or “WifiStateMachine”.This step is optional but invaluable when you need to report a bug to the device manufacturer.
After step 1 you should see the Wi‑Fi icon solidify and the device obtain an IP address. If the icon flickers or disappears, move to step 2. By the time you finish step 5, the connection should stay stable for at least a few minutes of normal use. If the problem recurs only on a specific router, focus on steps 8 and 9.
192.168.1.x or 10.0.0.x).If you’ve walked through the entire list and the device still drops Wi‑Fi when moving between networks, consider these last‑ditch actions:
These measures are rarely needed, but they guarantee you’ve exhausted all software‑side possibilities before assuming a hardware defect.
Android Wi‑Fi instability when switching networks is usually caused by stale DHCP data, DNS quirks, or aggressive power‑saving settings. By systematically forgetting networks, forcing fresh DHCP leases, checking DNS, disabling optimisation, and, if necessary, resetting network settings, most users can restore reliable connectivity without rooting or flashing a custom ROM. Keep this guide handy; the step‑by‑step flow lets you pinpoint the exact cause and apply the minimal fix needed.









